PETG (pronounced "PEE EEE TEE GEE"... not to be confused with a pet rock, which requires no adhesive) is a fantastic printing material: tough, glossy, and forgiving. Gluing it, however, has historically been misery. CA glue pops off. Epoxy peels. And so the Scientists engineered PETG Gloop!: an adhesive designed to provide the strongest bond between two 3D-printed PETG parts, period.

How does the Science Sauce work? 3D Gloop! is a hybrid adhesive... part solvent cement, part reactive glue, all science. First, the carrier solvents gently dissolve the surface of your print. Then the monomer complex gets to work: as the solvent evaporates, it chemically cures and crosslinks directly INTO the plastic. You're not sticking two parts together, you're welding them into one. That's why a proper Gloop! joint is stronger than the plastic around it, and why super glue (a weak mechanical bond wearing a lab coat) can't compete. It's Science! Not Magic… (the full nerd cut)

Using it is printed on the jar: sand both mating surfaces, slather that Science Sauce on BOTH of them, squeeze together with a slight twist, clamp for 15 minutes, and full POWER arrives in 24-ish hours. New to Gloop!? The Knowledge Base has the complete training program, videos included.

A few notes about working with PETG Gloop!

• It's thinner than the other flavors, on purpose. PETG demands a higher solvent load for reactivity. It's not watered down, it's calibrated... just be mindful that runs and drips are common. Gloves on, wax paper down.

• Print test coupons first. Unlike PLA, PETG isn't made by one supply chain... every producer's synthesis yields different molecular weights and additives, so some PETGs bond better than others. It's a go/no-go situation: a good bond on your test coupon means your real prints will weld beautifully. A weak bond, or Gloop! that won't cure? No amount of prep will fix it... change filaments.

• Strength hack: after clamping, gently warming the joint increases final bond strength. Hair-dryer warm, not heat-gun apocalypse.

• Shake well, settle 2 minutes, open away from your face. 30-60 seconds of open time.

• Squeeze-out is a GOOD sign. Don't wipe... dry, then slice (here's how).

• Use within 90 days of opening; store in the containment vessel (the retail box).

Bonding PETG to PLA or ABS? Respective Gloop! on the respective part, press with a twist. Gloop! bonds to Gloop!, and it bonds quite strong. Full guide.

Made in our laboratory in East Alton, Illinois... vertically integrated, American made, and trusted in automotive prototyping, defense & aerospace, medical modeling, and large-scale architecture. Where is 3D Gloop! made?

🖼 IMAGE — 120ml PETG Gloop! brush-top bottle, front label visible

🖼 IMAGE — two glossy PETG parts welded, held up to the light at the seam

[BUTTON: Gloop it!]

Bonds: PETG and co-polyester filaments (test coupons first!) Not for: PLA (that's PLA Gloop!), ABS/ASA (that's ABS/ASA Gloop!), painted surfaces, other glues' leftovers, magnets, or anything entering the human body. Still watching you.